Mountain Sports

Beginner Mountain: Guide to Climbing Mount Tofana di Rozes

Tofana di Rozes, snowy mountain, Italy

One of the most beautiful sights offered by mountainous regions around the world is that of Mount Tofana di Rozes. Having a height of 10,581 ft. (3,225 m) above sea level, it is located in the Province of Belluno, Veneto, in Italy. It is one of the most famous hiking spots in the Dolomites mountain range. This fame is undoubtedly supported by the fact that the mountain is almost pyramidical in shape, having three well-defined edges. The mountain’s south-facing side is vertical, making hiking from this direction virtually impossible. First surmounted in the 1860s, it has now become fairly common for hundreds of people to reach the top of the mountain each year.

This doesn’t change the fact that the climb can be risky if you are not fully prepared. Approaching the mountain from the west side is relatively easier than approaching it from the south side, which is only preferred by expert climbers. If you have respiratory issues, they can be aggravated at the top of the mountain can create respiratory issues. This is because the air density gets low at a height greater than 10,000 ft. This is also the reason why it is harshly cold near the summit, which is usually covered in snow in the winters. Thus, it is important that you are well-informed regarding every risk before you begin your ascent. Below is a guide for beginners to safely climbing Mount Tofana di Rozes.

Climbing Route

There are three main faces of the mountain, with respect to climbing routes. The north side is the simplest and the most popular one for hiking. The west side involves going through via ferratas. Via ferratas are protected routes that can be used by climbers who have no technical knowledge. They can include a multitude of gear including steel cables fixed to the summit, ladders and suspended bridges to ensure shorter travels. The south face of the mountain is the most treacherous of the three, involving steep climbs and complex routes.

On the north side, the climb is fairly easy. Even in summers, the route is layered with snow and ice, requiring you to take steady, secure steps. The best recommended time of the year for making this trip is during spring when the weather there is the most pleasant. This face of the mountain also follows a unique trail upon which you can encircle all of Tofana di Rozes.

On the west side, Ferrata Lipella is an excellent choice for anyone looking for a demanding ascent. Surrounding more than half of the mountain, the climb here heavily relies on using via ferratas.

The southside involves multiple six-grade climbs, meaning that it is only recommended for professionals. However, it presents the climber with stunning alpine views of the Dolomites. It is quite crowded, so you will definitely have to wait for your turn. The rock is loose at some places but mostly solid at others.

How Long Does the Climb Take?

Given the variety of climbing routes available, you can complete the program in anywhere between 3 – 16 hours. There are several tour programs dedicated to assisting you on the climb, showing you around the mountain and making camp breaks along the way. Most of these require you to sign up for a whole day.

However, if you prefer opting for more sophisticated routes, such as those involving via ferratas or intense rock climbing, you can complete your journey in less than five hours. Weather conditions like rain and high-velocity winds can also be a major factor. For daring beginners, we recommend using via ferratas, which are suitable for a quick, straight-forward and adventurous ascent.

Equipment You Need

The most basic equipment includes the following items.

If your route also involves via ferratas, then you will need the via ferrata set, which includes

  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Via ferrata gloves
  • Sling

With all of the above tips taken care of, you are set for a safe adventure up the mountain. For first-timers, it is always better to hire a tour guide to make sure they aren’t missing anything. Also, it goes without saying that physical fitness is a must for hiking up Tofana di Rozes. Therefore, before you attempt to go big, it is advisable to test your physique by climbing smaller heights.

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